Saturday, May 8, 2010

Final PORTFOLIO Post 5



If Bill and Ted Met My Grandmother… It’d

Be Tres Chic

A review of Balenciaga’s 2010 Autumn/Winter line.

An art form that is simultaneously excitingly dynamic and banally cyclical, runway fashion loves to confuse and tantalize its audience. We have come to “ooh and ahh” over what seems to be our grandmother’s wardrobe mixed with our kindergarten costume box, but in better fabric with expert tailoring, sported by giraffe like androgynous models with a deer-in-headlights gaze. But doesn’t that make perfect sense?


Overdone clichés such as “contemporary classic” and strange oxymorons like “retro futurism” take center stage all too often when critics describe runway fashion. Nicolas Ghesquiere's collection for Balenciaga is one of the first collections I have seen this year that has taken one of these oxymorons as a tagline, and instead of thinking, “justify it however you can, Nic”, I thought, “wow, I get it! I can see this collection as having had some real thought behind the concept!” "Retro futurism" didn't mean the Jetsons, and "classics" didn't mean trench coats or button-downs—it encompassed elements of domesticity that were brought into the present with what has now become Ghesquiere’s signature futuristic aesthetic.

I usually hate this kind of fashion mumbo-jumbo, but peppered through the collection were “updated versions” of quilting, which were reminiscent of the old quilted puffy vest, but called upon newer fabric choices, like leather. The textures in the collection didn’t stop there—grandma made a triumphant appearance (as she usually does on runway fashion) with a doily/lace napkin ensemble, and a simple wool sweater was brought into the future with bright green, sort of geometric threading.

The shoes were probably the line’s saving grace. None of the pieces could totally stand alone as an embodiment of the theme, but the shoes were in a league all their own. Oxfords and loafers are generally staples in the wardrobe of every classic preppy lover, but in Ghesquiere’s world, faux bois elevated with geometric shapes and of what can only be described as minerals created an entirely new and fresh take on elemental style.

“Retro futurism.” I hate to admit it, but I totally bought it. Honeydew and cantaloupe colors reminiscent of the pop art movement mixed with Ghesquiere’s darkly sleek and futuristic signature provided just the right amount of severity for me to disregard my usual disdain for runway fashion critique. I see what you’ve done here, Mr. Ghequiere! He said his goal was "to ennoble every day objects"… mission accomplished.

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